E32 Shaft
Date: May 14, 2002 Hi Paul The boat is currently out of the water and in spinning the shaft by hand there appears to a very slight wabble at the point where the shaft leaves the boat. We ran the engine from May to Oct. last year with no apparent effect on the cutlass bearing, also no noticable vibration was felt. My mechanic is suggesting that the shaft be replaced with a longer shaft and the possible installation of spur line cutters. Since the rudder would have to be removed a great deal of time and expense is envolved. Has any member experienced this type of problem and any suggestion on the need to replace the prop shaft. Thanks for comments. Date: May 14, 2002 Peter, One thing that popped out in your comments was the mechanics recommendation to "replace with a longer shaft". I'd be VERY care full about doing this since the shaft length is usually determined by it's diameter. In other words, the spacing between the cutlass bearing and the propeller should be 1 to 2 times the diameter of the shaft. Since the E32 came with a 1" shaft this spacing should be no more than 2". I believe the reason for this is to minimize vibration which would of course increase wear on the bearing, strut, and stuffing box. I know it's an expense but you might want to take advantage of the opportunity and replace the stuffing box, if you have one, with a drip less one. Also on my hit list is a feathering prop. Our prop is about 4" inches from the cutlass and has less than 1/2" clearance between the propeller blade and the hull--much too tight. I'm planning on going down from our 16x12 to a 15x13 feathering prop to increase that hull space. Just some thoughts. Let's see what other owners have to say. Date: May 14, 2002 First duty is a precise measurement of any misalignment of the shaft: Use a magic marker, attach it so it touches the shaft and turn the shaft. Do this also inside the hull, on the engine shaft coupling too, and at the end of the shaft at the prop. It is also possible that the prop is damaged or bent. I had many of those incidents and never bent the shaft. A wet suit, a large pony bottle with regulator on board is convenient for underwater damage. My pony bottle lasts about 25 minutes in working underwater. See a dive shop. Date: May 14, 2002 Hi Peter, Going on with a warped shaft is not a good idea, you get more vibration and your cutlass bearing will suffer. Ofcourse you can add the cutters after the repair. The shaft is a standard piece of stainless steel, nothing special. Yes, you must drop the rudder, ask to put your boat extra high on planks under the keel, otherwise you must dig a hole...under the rudder. Some marina's dislike us digging holes. Then you take away the rings underdecks that contain the rudder axis and there it goes. Dismounting is easier that the mounting of the rudder, but with help of one assistant, you can do this yourself. Remove the propellor and zinc (if it is still good). Now, you disconnect the driveshaft at the gearbox, most of the time you must loosen some allen bolts. It is a good time to check your stuffing box and change the flex packing. Slide out the driveshaft. Go to the shop and buy the same length and diameter and voila you mount the whole thing in reverse order. Success. Date: May 14, 2002 Peter, Date: May 14, 2002 Peter and Fred, Date: May 14, 2002 Peter, Date: May 14, 2002 Dear Peter and Paul, Date: May 14, 2002 Peter: First off, you don't have to drop the rudder to pull the shaft. I forget either a full turn to starboard or to port will allow the shaft to clear the rudder, provided the prop has been removed. Next, the way I would check for a bent rudder without pulling the shaft would be to disconnect the transmission/shaft flanges and slowly turn the shaft and look and/or measure for any runout - in other words measure alignment. Also, if you do wind up pulling the shaft, put a new cutllass bearing in - most of the work will have been done already! Good luck, Paul Date: May 14, 2002 Hi Peter: Date: May 14, 2002 Hi Peter, Date: May 15, 2002 Are you sure the shaft was not bent by the strap on the travel lift, You should consider how much you use the boat and how many times you have had a trap on your prop and consider the cost is it going to be worth it. On my E43 we sailed from Virigina to Panama and back 6000 miles and did not get the prop tangled. God was with us I guess. Date: May 16, 2002 Pete, At the risk of suggesting what you have already explored perhaps the problem is wear on the shaft at the bearing.I had mine replaced @ 840 engine hours and was able to clearly discern wear on the original shaft after it was pulled. The shaft was $349.00 and man hours was 26 to include pulling and replacing shaft, cutlass bearing, stuffing et. al. No more vibration! Date: May 16, 2002 If it worked last year, why wouldn't it work this year. I would let it go and see what happens. Worse case is you would have to pay for a second haul out and then the big $$. If it still works, what the hell. I know that Danny's Fault has been running for me for 9 years with a slight prop shaft vibration. I live with it. We put anywhere from 500-1000 NM per year.
From: Peter/Marilyn Sicurella psic@rcn.com
Last May we snagged a lobster trap line which wrapped around the prop shaft. We where towed and a diver then cut the line from the shaft.
From: Paul C. Uhl endvr32@endeavourowners.com
Can't advise you personally on the shaft issue but use good judgement here. Additional vibration from the shaft can cause excessive wear in the cutlass bearing, it's attachment to the hull, the stuffing box (stern tube) as well as the shaft it self.
From: Wolfgang Harms Wolfgang@pioneer-research.com
From: Fred Altmann altmann@012.net.il
Right, you have been unlucky. My take on this problem is: Yes, you must change the drive shaft. This should not be too expensive. And you should be able to do this yourself.
From: Fred Altmann altmann@012.net.il
One more remark: I would not put in a longer shaft. These things are calculated by the designer and are important. If you cannot mount a cutter today, don't mount a cutter. Life is bearable without these gadgets. I doubt if you would have prevented the foul-up with the cutter.
From: Paul Uhl endvr32@endeavourowners.com
A feathering prop might eliminate the need for a cutter as well as reduce drag and eliminate prop walk.
From: Frederick VerPlanck fastfredv@hotmail.com
Does your mechanic have a big new mortgage...or perhaps a kid who needs orthedontia? You probably only need a new cutless bearing. A relatively cheap fix....unless the shaft is badly scored or worn, you shouldn't need to replace it. regards.
From: Fred Altmann altmann@012.net.il
An autoprop is on my wishlist; it adds 1 knot to the boat while sailing. It will greatly improve going astern, but it is VERY expensive. Why does it eliminate the need for a cutter?
From: Paul Hotz paulhotz@optonline.net
From: Gene Rohloff gener@execpc.com boat is currently out of the water and in spinning the shaft by hand
> there appears to a very slight wabble at the point where the shaft leaves
> the boat. We ran the engine from May to Oct. last year with no apparent
> effect on the cutlass bearing, also no noticable vibration was felt. My
> mechanic is suggesting that the shaft be replaced with a longer shaft and
> the possible installation of spur line cutters. Since the rudder would
have
> to be removed a great deal of time and expense is envolved.
>
> Has any member experienced this type of problem and any suggestion on the
> need to replace the prop shaft.
>
> Thanks for comments.
>
> Peter Sicurella
> psic@rcn.com
> Crosswind E32
I've just spent about 20 hrs trying to eliminate a slight wobble at the forward end of my prop shaft. My yard owner who is an old tugboat skipper said I will never eliminate all the wobble because the various fittings that connect the shaft to the transmission do not cause the center of the prop shaft to be exactly in line with the center of rotation of whatever is at the aft end of the motor. Essentially the prop shaft is on a slight eccentric. I bet if you watch the forward end of your prop shaft while it's turning you'll see the slight wobble there. I find the best way for me to remove the prop shaft is to use a come-along to raise just the aft end of the motor just enough to alow the prop shaft to slip forward. I did have a machine shop check my shaft and they said it was true. Good Sailing.
From: Albert Felsher arfelsher@pocketmail.com
I don't have an opinion as to your need to replace your shaft. On my E40 I eliminated the need to drop the rudder by cutting the old shaft into two pieces. My shaft needed replacing due to crevice corrosion in the area of the cutlass bearing. The cutlass bearing also needed replacing. The new shaft (same size) can be inserted in one piece past the rudder if the new cutlass bearing is installed after the shaft is in place.
From: Tom Bullock THBWHB@aol.com
From: Robert Redmond redmonds64@msn.com
From: Rob & Jude Johnson robjude@shianet.org
