E40 Engine Repower
Date: November 9, 1997
From: Armand Zerilli
I am considering re-powering my Endeavour 40 sail boat which is15 years old and has a Perkins 4-108 with over 9000 Hr. and Westerbeeke Generator 4kw with 3500 hr. . . . Both are running fine, however I'm intending to do some extensive cruising for several years and don't want to have breakdowns in far away places.
I have chosen to replace these diesel engines with a Yanmar 4JH2 50hp. and a Westerbeeke 5kw. The problem I'm having is that the old engines have 2" exhaust System. However, the Yanmar requires a 3" exhaust system . . . and will not warranty the engine with anything less . . . and I agree I don't want to damage the engine if this is their requirement. Because the way the boat exhaust hosing is configured . . . it is a major problem in changing one of the 2 hose to a 3". Its a 26 feet run going through bulkheads and various inaccessible places.
I'm looking for anyone who knows of anyone who has done a refit on an Endeavour 40 and how did they solve the 3" exhaust . . . or if they used a different engine . . . what make?? thanks Armand
Date: March 15, 1999
From: Armand Zerilli
Paul, Last year I asked Endeavor owners on this forum:
"I am considering re-powering my Endeavor 40 sailboat which is 15 years old..I have Chosen to replace these diesel engines with a Yanmar 4JH2 50hp. and a Westerbeke 5kw. The problem I'm having is that the old engines have 2 inch exhaust System. However, the Yanmar requires a 3" exhaust system . . . and will not warranty the engine with anything less . . . . However, because the way the boat exhaust hosing is configured it's a major problem. . . It's a 26 feet run going through bulkheads and various inaccessible places. Does anybody know a way of getting around this problem"..
I did not get any response to my inquiry, and as a fool I went ahead and installed the Yanmar according to their requirements.
I thought I'd like to express my opinion to other owners that might be considering swapping out to a Yanmar that I would not opt to change the exhaust hose. Frankly, I do not think the old exhaust system would cause the back pressure to rise to a point that would significantly harm the engine. Another Endeavor 40 which I know the owners, had a reputable local yard install the same engine, using the old exhaust system, and is running just fine after 4 years. By the way they some how got Yanmar to warranty the engine (maybe because It was professional installed). I'd still not do It!!!.. even if Yanmar says they will not certify or warranty the engine.
The biggest problem I had was with the exhaust hose system. It's really a bear to change over to a 3" diameter tube especially in the Endeavor 40. I spent more time and effort putting in that damn exhaust system than I did replacing both engines (I also refit the generator)
Getting the engines in and out of the boat was much easier than I thought. We used a long boat dock davit and got them through the companion-way and through the engine room forward opening. I first striped the Perkins as best I could to make her lighter, and lifted It up using the steering pedestal (Edson) bolts above the engine to hang a vang.then placed 2X6s under pan and along the engine room floor and slid the engine forward by the use of a "come-along" tied to the mast . Then used the davit to lift It up and out. The Yanmar went in the same way and I only needed to remove the alternator to get her through the openings. Its quite easy to get her lined up with using the old motor mounts and some shims under them.
The Yanmar is a perfect retrofit for this boat. Its by far a better, quite, cleaner, more efficient motor than the Perkins. It's a true 51Hp engine (Perkins is only 37 @ the shaft) which will give you greater thrust and about more knots using the same prop and RPMs. And because It will run at 2800RPM you'll make up till 8+ knots with out overheating.
Date: February 17, 2003
From: David Meuche
Should anyone be interested, I repowered our E40 with a Yanmar 4jh3 56 hp engine about a year and a half ago. It was a great improvement over the Perkins 4108. I would be happy to share my experience with anyone who is considering a re-power.
Date: March 6, 2006
From: David Meuche
About 3 ? to years ago we re-powered our 1981 Endeavour 40. We selected the Yanmar 4JH-3. It is a normally aspirated 56 HP engine and is slightly lighter than the old Perkins 41-08.
The Perkins came out without any problems. We have a generator and therefore we have an opening to the engine compartment immediately under the companionway ladder in addition to the doors to the compartment on the port side of it. The generator was removed through the forward opening and the engine followed it right out of the same opening.
The Yanmar requires a larger exhaust hose, 4 inch as I remember, and a larger exhaust through hull. It also needed a larger seawater strainer intake through hull. The 4 inch hose just fit through the space where the blower hoses exit the engine compartment to port. (between the aft bulkhead of the galley and the forward bulkhead of the aft head. An elbow was required in the aft head where the exhaust hose turned aft. We cut an opening just above the shelf in the head in the port side wall and the forward bulkhead of the head to allow access to install the elbow. After it was very easy to cover the opening with some teak veneered plywood and trim after the installation.
We had custom engine mounts built and a custom stainless exhaust elbow built for the engine. It then mounted on the existing mounting platform/oil pan molded into the engine compartment.
The sea trial showed that we needed to remove about 2 degrees of pitch to achieve the max rated 3,600 rpm’s on the engine. This engine cruises at about 2,800 to 3,000 rpms.
The noise level is quieter than the Perkins was and there is less vibration as well. The temperature in the engine compartment, when the engine is running also runs 40 to 50 degrees cooler that it did with the Perkins. A much more efficient water jacket seems to be the reason. Yanmar wants/allows you to run the engine wide open at least 10% of the time to keep the cylinders clean. When I do that we see 8.4 knots. Normal cruise is around 6.5 to 7.0 knots and we burn around .8 GPH.
Our engine has now 670 hours on it and except for a small oil leak on the oil pressure transmitter, easily fixed, it has been flawless. Are we glad we did it? Very! Would I change anything? Not a thing. Our installation was done in St. Petersburg, FL and I would use the same installer again and recommend him in a minute. Mark Donaldson, MD Marine Services 727 455-1171. He has been at it for a long time. Now, for the money. When I did this 3 to 4 years ago the engine was slightly less than $7,000. The other “stuff” and labor I am guessing was about $3,000 to $3,500.
I don’t think that Yanmar is selling the 4JH-3 any more but know that they have a newer model of the same or a similar engine.
This is important! When the engine is out is a perfect time to do a great many things. We pulled the pedestal to use the hole where it was, to raise the engine for removal and installation. I decided to overhaul it and to replace all of the instrumentation then. I also replaced the water heater and generally tidied the engine compartment up. Replaced fuel lines, water hoses, re-routed some wiring and on and so on. Anything you can think of that you have on a wish list that is in or passes through the engine compartment is about 6 ? times easier to do when the engine is removed.
If I can help anyone with this don’t hesitate to email or call. I could take pictures of some of this to be emailed if that would help.
Date: November 3, 2015
From: Meg Morrison
I'm the the owner of a 1982 E40 and aminterested is speaking with owners who have replaced their Perkins 4-108. I recently purchased the E40 and two independent diesel mechanics are recommending that it's time to replace the original 1982 Perkins 4-108. The mechanics are suggesting a Beta engine from a distributer in NC.
• Have any of you repowered?
• With what engine?
• What recommendations and advice do you offer?
• Anyone have a Beta?
• What HP?
• What propeller?
• How did you remove your old engine? Halyard or hoist?
• Cut bulkhead under stairs?
• Did you replace the original fuel tank that is under the engine at the same time?
• Any resale value or trade-in for the Perkins?
Date: November 4, 2015
From: Bill Mintz
I rebuilt a 4-108 on an E40 while at anchor. I took the manifolds and the head off, then it was pretty manageable. A 4:1 was enough to lift it out to the passageway. I think the block would have gone out without cutting anything.
I loved my Perkins and would be slow to get into the trouble of repowering, but if I did, I like the Yanmar.
PS. Resale, try trans Atlantic Diesel.
Date: November 4, 2015
From: Fred ver Plank
Our 1983 E40 was re-powered just before we bought it . . . with a rebuilt Perkins 4-108. The previous owner took off the ancillary gear so that just the block remained, slid it forward on plywood covered with cardboard, and lifted it out through the companionway using a block and tackle. The new 4-108 runs like a scalded dog. Purrs like a kitten, and the best part of it was that all the old, (but still in great condition bolt-ons), e.g. alternator, water maker, salt water pump, starter motor, etc, fit right back on the re-built engine without the need to replace motor mounts, transmission, engine control cables, shaft coupler, etc, etc. What we got was essentially a new zero-hours engine at the least possible expense.
All that was then required was to realign the engine to the prop shaft. Of course he took the opportunity to replace a few things, but the extra cost was minimal compared with changing to a different manufacturer's engine.
Questions? Feel free to ask.
Date: November 4, 2015
From: Jimmy Parker
Yes, I did it all, repowered, rewired, fuel tanks, etc. I have a 1981 E40 hull #106. In 1999 I gutted the engine room, pulled out the old tanks and started over.
To get the engine out you need to strip it down to make it as small as you can, trans. off too. I pulled out the fuel tanks and had two aluminum ones fabricated to fit. Originally there was 75 gals. capacity, my tanks ended up being 65 gals. because I raised them up off of the bottom of the bilge which was the main problem with the E40's, they stayed in salt water. I also had the tanks powder coated, 15 years later all is well.
I repowered with a Yanmar 4JH3E, 56 HP naturally aspirated 4-cylinder diesel. Three blade 15/16 prop. great match. The boat will achieve hull speed at about 3,000 rpm's. The engine will do 3,600rpm's. I cruise at normally, 2,500rpm's.
You might be able to get something for your old 108, I gave mine away.
I have been living in the Bahamas since 2001, use my boat all the time and would not have changed a thing.
Hope this helps, good luck with your project. It will be worth it, Endeavour's are.
Date: November 5, 2015
From: Ernest Stonecipher
Hey guys. First, I did not actually replace my 4-108 (I went with the rebuild it option) but I researched it for a couple of years. What I found is that everything hinges on if you plan to do the work yourself, or if you plan to have your yard do it. The costs of having a yard do the work here stateside is usually a lot more than the cost of the engine.
The last time I talked to Beta Marine in Oriental NC, (about 2 months ago) they quoted me around $13,000 to $16000 (depending on options) for their comparable engine which would have the same footprint and connections as your 4-108. Simply put, it would be a ‘plug and play’ type engine swap. That means that the yard would only have to remove your Perkins and hook up the Beta—saving a ton in yard costs. The Beta is lighter, more powerful at the prop, and a bit more fuel efficient than your 4-108, but not as light, powerful, or fuel efficient as a new Yanmar.
A Yanmar 4JH5E is a lighter, more powerful, and more fuel efficient option. You can get the Yanmar for a comparable price. However, The yanmar uses different sized exhaust hoses and a slight modification of the engine bed. That means a considerably larger yard bill.
A third option is to purchase a re-manufactured Perkins 4-108. The cost difference is dramatic— Diesel Engine Trader can send you a like new, re-manufactured 4-108 for $5450 (after core cost), which you (or your yard) can switch out with your current engine in less than a day.
The least expensive option is to rebuild your current engine. You can find engine rebuild kits online for around $800. I suggest also replacing the fuel lift pump ($30) and raw water pump ($300) when you do the rebuild. You will have to have a local shop press in the new cylinder sleeves and seat the new valves (around $300). Testing your injectors and high pressure fuel pump is usually done as well, the costs for that vary between $300 and $900. (one shop I talked to quoted twice the price for a new injector just to test one injector). All together, you can rebuild your 4-108 for around $2000- $3000 depending on how bad your current engine is. If you buy all of the parts, you can usually find a local diesel shop that can do it for you for around $3500 (total with parts and labor). This option requires at least one friend with good engine/ mechanical skills, and a couple more strong backed friends to help wrestle the engine from the engine compartment out of the boat, then back into the boat once the work is done.
I removed the alternator, heat exchanger and cylinder head while in the engine compartment to make moving it out of the engine compartment easier, then removed the gear drive (transmission) and bell housing once it was in the passageway to make it lighter for hoisting out of the cabin with block and tackle. I did this while in the water at my marina. If you go with this option, plan the engine removal and replacement carefully. That beast is heavy and you are working in very tight spaces. I didn't damage any trim, or decking while removing/ replacing mine but it was close a couple of times. The hardest part of the entire rebuild was removing and replacing the engine. Second hardest was finding a shop to press the sleeves at a decent price—some of the quotes I got gave me the impression that the shops were just throwing out numbers without a clue as to what I was asking to be done. The rest of the rebuild was actually very easy.
Date: November 5, 2015
From: Ernest Stonecipher
Sorry. I forgot to answer the rest of the questions . . .
• Have any of you repowered?
• With what engine?
• What recommendations and advice do you offer?
• Anyone have a Beta?
• What HP?
• What propeller? I didn't change my 3 blade
• How did you remove your old engine? Halyard or hoist?
Before removing the engine from the engine room, I removed the engine room doors, I drained the oil, marked and removed all fuel and electrical connections, removed the heat exchanger, alternator, oil filter, then (carefully) MARKED and disconnected the fuel lines from the injectors and removed the cylinder head. Then we disconnected the shaft and unbolted the engine feet. Using cut to size 2x2's, 2x4's and a small platform forward of the engine bed, we would pry the engine up and block it fore and aft until the engine was high enough to ease forward. --There were 4 of us working from the engine access points lifting and maneuvering the engine slowly forward until we could angle it out the engine room opening, then into the passageway --Once out of the engine room, we removed the gear box and bell housing to make moving the engine around the boat easier. After maneuvering the engine into the main salon and removing my dodger and bimini, I removed (unscrewed /unbolted) my stairs and set them up in the v-berth. We then placed the main halyard on the boom about 3' from the end and raised the boom about a foot. I took my boom vang (5-1 purchase with 1/2" yacht braid for the line) and secured it directly above the companion way hatch. I added another smaller block and tackle (4-1 purchase 3/8" yacht braid) 3 feet aft of the boom vang. We carefully lifted the engine with the boom vang until it cleared the hatch then used the smaller block and tackle to ease the engine aft on the boom to an area I had padded on the cockpit coaming just forward of the primary winch. once the engine was secure on the coaming we re-adjusted the block and tackle to work in tandem so we could lower the engine onto a cart on the dock. We moved the lower shackle for main sheet to the rail, lifted the engine enough to clear the lifelines and used the main sheet and two control lines to ease the boom over the dock (slowly and carefully as the weight of the engine on the boom causes a lot of heeling. Then using the two sets of block and tackle on the boom, we lowered the engine onto the cart. The hardest part of this was getting the engine out of the engine room- I suggest having some scrap lumber and a small saw handy to make blocks and pry bars as most of them have to be small and specifically sized to ease the engine off the mounts and move it around in the engine room. Replacing the engine will be easier since you will have a better idea of what you will need.
• Cut bulkhead under stairs?
Cutting the bulkhead under the stairs would probably have made moving the engine easier but I would have had to reroute a lot of electrical cabeling, my freshwater pump, the freshwater lead lines, my secondary bilge pump and its lines, my inverter / charger, and a bunch of other assorted stuff that would have made it a 3 day job. I decided to go with maneuvering the engine out the engine room hatch.
• Did you replace the original fuel tank that is under the engine at the same time?
I did Not. However I wish I would have extended the engine bed to collect and oil leaks from the aft of the engine. The pan section of my engine bed does not extend the entire length of my engine for some reason. . . .
• Any resale value or trade-in for the Perkins?
YES. You can use your engine as the core charge for getting a remanufactured one. If your engine is running, you would probably get more for it by selling it than as a core charge though. You can sell the engine on diesel engine trader.com, locally, or on some cruisers forums. As a core it is worth about $1500. If it runs, you can get around $2000-$3000 for it. Another (not the best) option is to part it out. If you have a newer model, the heat exchanger is expensive. The fuel pumps, injectors, the head, oil pan, timing gears, water pump, block and valve cover are also in demand but not worth as much as used parts. You end up with a lot of spare parts laying around waiting for someone to need them.
Date: November 6, 2015
From: Dietmar Wells
I haven’t repowered yet but I looked into it 7 years ago.
I was thinking of a Yanmar 60hp turbo from Trans Atlantic Diesel in Gloucester VA. The darn engine is still ticking along. I don’t know when it will be my turn. Right now the rear main seal is seeping so it’s getting there. I will remove the 4-108 through the companion way by removing the heat exchanger, starter, alternator, and maybe the head. The transmission is easy to remove and leave in place. I will do something with the fuel tank when the engine comes out. That’s the time to do it. The Yanmar has the same footprint as the 4-108 so no need to rework the mounts, just install new ones. I will remove all accessories from the Yanmar and make sure it’s dry. Lower through companion way and transport to eng comp then reassemble. This is what Macus from Trans Atlantic Diesel recommended. You can get them on Website. Please let me know how you are doing with this project. Regardless of what you decide to do.
Date: November 7, 2015
From: Mike Haas
I have an E40 that had a Perkins that was dying one piece at a time. So what I did was some research on replacing the Perkins with an electric conversion. It’s really cool. I did the project about 2.5 years ago. I have a large set of batteries hidden behind the Salon seats and then I added a DC gen-set where the old Perkins used to be. The closest analogy is a Chevy Volt. The prop turns all the time by the electric motor (silent) which is powered by the batteries. When the batteries get low (between 40-180 minutes depending on speed) I then turn on the gen-set, which then helps power and re-charge the batteries. I have the ability to feed solar and or wind generators into the system but have not installed as of yet.
If you think there would be some interest in hearing details I would write a little article with illustrations from the re-power.
