E32 Port Replacement

Date: June 29, 1998
From: Jack Blake b82094@aol.com

I have a 1978 E32 and recently found two of the smaller opening ports have cracked and broken hinge sections. Does anyone know what company made these ports and if replacement parts are available?

Date: June 30, 1998
From: Paul Uhl endvr32@endeavourowners.com

Jack,
Most of the E32s I've seen have Beckson ports. Our 32 has them and the 37s thru 40s I've seen around Chicago have them. They are plastic with white interior and exterior flanges. The lenses come in clear or smoked and you can order them directly from Beckson. West Marine may be able to get them as well. We pulled and rebed all of our ports two summers ago (I would be happy to help anyone considering doing this) but would recommend replacing them with a more substantial port. We looked at aluminum ports from Lewmar but the sizes didn't match the cutouts for the larger ports (they didn't make them that large). Since then, other owners have told me that they were able to get the proper sizes from ABI which makes very good ports (they're come in chrom plated brass or brass). You can find both listed in the sailing magazines--especially the equipment guides that they publish--and on this site under manufacturers.

Date: September 10, 1998
From: Al Augustine stmullins@erols.com

All of the 32 Endeavours I have looked at have GRAY ENTERPRISES ports installed. They are now known as BOMAR and are available from JSI in florida. You can find their add in sail magazine, also BOAT/US catalog lists them.

Date: September 10, 1998
From: Paul Uhl endvr32@endeavourowners.com

Al,
Thanks for the tip. We'll add that to the postings. I know several owners were thinking of replacing theirs. All of the Endeavours I've seen have Beckson ports and the only replacements we've been able to locate (due to size/cutout) are from ABI.

Do you have any idea if these Endeavours you saw were earlier or later models? Maybe Endeavour switched at some point?

Date: September 23, 1998
From: Tom Gilbert TGil95746@aol.com

My E32 came with the Beckson ports. Although I find them a little needy, I have a local Marina supply store that ordered new seals and had the ports in stock. Since I only wanted the seals ( the originals were nasty), That's as far as I took the remidy. My new seals even dribble, so I'm not out of the woods yet...I suspect the lexan plate used as the port can flex, or dirt can scuff the lexan, making a path for a dribble to follow. ..sure coud use some comments on this one....Thanks..T.

Date: October 17, 1998
From: Ed Dowd eDowd@Adv-Sys.com

The E33 has Beckson ports as well. I had one which was leaking, even though the prior owner had replaced the seals - anyway, the new seals had been set into the frame with some kind of goop that had hardened - so I cleaned the goop off completely (every speck) and reset the seal simply coated with silicone grease, and so far it is staying dry, with no drips. Note for non-divers: silicone grease is available at most dive shops - it is used on o-rings in air regulators, underwater lights, etc.

Date: October 23, 1998
From: Tom Gilbert TGil95746@aol.com

It's been a few months now on the new seals, and they are all holding well now...no dribbles. I suspect they need a "seat in" time. I hope this helps.

Date: September 23, 1999
From: Steve Kepran kepran@mnsi.net

New Found Metals in Washington carry chrome plated bronze ports that fit an Endeavour 32 perfectly. We replaced all ten ports. We are now dry and can see thru the safety glass.

Date: October 6, 1999
From: Robert T. McWhorter RTMLAW@aol.com

Eden, my 1979 Endeavour 37, has plastic ports with the molded inscription: PYHI. Several of the gaskets now leak intermittently. Does anyone know of the address of this manufacturer or its successor or where I might find replacement gaskets? My explorations for the past six months have been fruitless.

Date: October 6, 1999
From: Robert T. McWhorter RTMLAW@aol.com

A suggestion for leaking ports.

I have found on several of my ports that the leak was not through the gasket but around the glass in the frame. I tried "Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure" with no success. I then came across a silicone product that may be found in any automotive parts retail outlet called "Flowable Silicone." It has the consistency of a heavy syrup and when applied with the TINIEST bead at the edge of the glass in the port, sags into any opening between the glass and the frame. The leaks were cured and after two years have not returned.

Date: October 6, 1999
From: Pete Doddato lapdog@olsusa.com

While you are looking for new gaskets, get some silicone grease (available at pool supply stores) and coat the gaskets with it. It will stop the leaks for a good long time.

Date: October 6, 1999
From: Carl Hibbard Chgypsy@aol.com

Robert
Have you checked other boats with "Beckson" ports ?? and do yours look the same? The Endeavour owners manual says Beckson, and my '79 E-37 has Beckson. The forward six ports should be 5 x 12 ports, and the five larger should be 7 x 14.

You can go to Beckson.com ; They have a very nice web page with all of their part numbers and prices.(including gaskets). The last phone number I used was 203-333-1412.

Under the assumption that the owner has not changed them and they are Beckson. A physical description would be an inner lense that has 2 sets of two plastic tabs on the top and bottom that are in the same location, the plant could drill either set of tabs for the hinges. The hinge side if typical has small washers to take up the gaps to the frame. The bottom two tabs should rest on a duplicated set in the white plastic, where your screw down knobs or roll lock levers push the lense into.

Where did you find the PYHI inscription on yours, perhaps some of the list members who get to their boat this weekend could check theres for the same ID.

Date: October 7, 1999
From: Sam Woolsey SamWoolsey@aol.com

Robert:
I don't know about the 37, but the E-40's 16 opening ports are made by Beckson. They are still in business.

My 40 has 2 sizes: Large is 7x14 and the Small is (I think) 5x12. Several other sizes are available. Address is:

Tech Service/Orders/International
Tel 203 333-4412 or Fax 203 384-6954

Date: October 7, 1999
From: Mike MIller capnmike_s@yahoo.com

As far as I know, the original ports in the E-37 were Becksons...PYHI no longer exists as a company...I believe they were bought out several years ago. You might, if you haven't already, check with Pompanette in Florida ...they are the people who bought out Bomar (and GRAY), and they may either have the parts or know where you can get them.

Date: October 7, 1999
From: Les Baston Miladi4us@aol.com

I talked to Beckson in Bridgeport.CT (203-366-3644) and they advised me that PYHI was bought out by Bowmar in Charlestown, NH (603-826-5791). They are part of Pompanette Co. of Florida. I hope this may be of some help.

Date: October 9, 1999
From: Tom Gilbert TGil95746@aol.com

Well Paul. As I babysat my E32 in it's slip during Tropical Storm Floyd, I came to the same conclusion. We were in NJ, and the rain was going sideways. I had the dodger up so I could leave the hatch boards out, but the rain and wind was so fierce, that the plastic Becksons actually bowed in a milimeter, and let all the rain in too! The interior was soaked !!!! Pieces of crap ! Only three of them bowed, in the main cabin, but water in is still water in. NEVER AGAIN !!! My next ship will be 42 more or less, and a blue water vessel. It will not have Beckson ! But, there are replacement gaskets for them... I did alll mine last year.

Date: December 6, 1999
From: Ray Cullum raycullum@netscape.net

Is there a direct replacement for the port lights on the E32?

Date: December 6, 1999
From: Paul Uhl endvr32@endeavourowners.com

There are several manufacturers. I've done this also. It took me, with replacing the coach roof interior teak, about 60 hours. It's been a few years but I'd be happy to talk to you about it as well.

Date: December 6, 1999
From: Robert Warren rwarren@inna.net

I have a 1979 E32. Beckson makes direct portlight replacements for both sizes on the E32. Someone suggested to me that I replace some of mine with fixed ports and the remainder with ones that will open so as to cut down the number than can leak. Being on the Chesapeake with hot summer nights I decided to replace all of mine with opening portlights for maximum ventilation.

Date: December 6, 1999
From: Kevin Coon kcoon@worldnet.att.net

Beckson makes drop in replacement portlights.

Date: December 7, 1999
From: William Gillette William.Gillette@med.va.gov

Don't know about the toe rails, but the port lights are a direct replacement. There are two sizes used, and Beckson has both. Local suppliers can order them for you or I believe you can order direct. You'll need to decide on smoked or clear lenses and rain-drain vs standard. Each portlight runs just less than $100. The difficulty of removal & replacement depends on the condition of the wood and the old adhesive used. Beckson probably has a Web-site but if you need their address I have it somewhere; they're located in New England.

Date: December 7, 1999
From: Jim McMordie Jim_McMordie@gilbarco.com

My 1976 E-32 was also leaking between the toe rail and the hull. I just sealed it with RTV caulking. You can do a relatively neat job if your'e careful. I also replaced all the ports. You can buy them through West Marine. Gray Marine (written on hatches) was purchased by (I believe it was) Bomar.

Date: December 7, 1999
From: David & Carol Wright Dgw1@aol.com

I have replaced all 10 portlights and the inside teak veneer on KON-TIKI, the 1977 E-32 that I used to have. There are replacement ports from Beckson and we got the teak veneer sheets from a wood company in Florida. The ports are screwed into the fiberglass with no backing. When we replaced them, we used barrel nuts so the ports would be thru-bolted. The barrel nuts are also available from Beckson.

Date: December 21, 1999
From: Alan Murray murray.alan@orbital.com

Gang,
I am contemplating purchasing a '78 Endeavour 32. She is in solid shape, however the four foremost ports are leaky. The interior trim needs to be replaced in the forward cabin both port and starboard around these 4 ports. How much should I figure into my offer to adress this condition? Should I re-seal or replace these ports?

Date: December 21, 1999
From: Paul Uhl endvr32@endeavourowners.com

Alan.
I rebed all our ports (1982 E32) 3 years ago. A professional quoted me $4,000 to do all 10 (or $400 each). I can't remember if that included replacing the teak interior panels or not.

I ended up doing it myself. It took about 60 hours and I reused the original ports. I also made all new interior teak panels. While it's not a particularly hard job to do, it is messy and time consuming. In any case, the only real way to stop the leaks is to pull the port(s), clean it up and rebed it. One note: the teak panels along the port and starboard coach roof are two pieces that join together just aft the head. The only way to remove a panel is to remove the trim rings from all the ports along that panel. You can get new rings, gaskets, screens, etc. from Beckson (check closely--Endeavour used more than one supplier of ports).

If the current ports are in relatively good shape, you can reuse them however you may break some when removing them. Some owners have opted for metal ports but it adds signifigantly to the cost.

If I were you, I'd take the time to do all of them. Otherwise what will most likely happen is that you'll do the forward ones, and end up having to do the others in the near future. If you have any more questions I'd be happy to discuss them in detail with you.

Date: December 26, 1999
From: PeteDoddato lapdog@olsusa.com

Alan,
I am in the process of replacing the ports on my Endeavour 32. The plastic ports get brittle and break and leaks are always a problem. If I were you I would replace all of them with bronze ports from New Found Metals. They are beautiful, well made and priced right....5x12s are $149.00 vs 89.95 for Gray plastic and for the 7x14s they are $169.00. I would replace all of the ports with the boat being that old. I tried to patch and fix for awhile but it is a waste of time really. I will also be replacing damaged teak on the coach....don't have a price on that yet. You can check out the ports at newfoundmetals.com Good luck

Date: July 11, 2000
From: Albert Augustine ABig2guy@aol.com

i'm looking for some kind of bracket that can be retrofitted to bomar ports for the threaded rod and knob assembley to attach to. i've seen them on a 32 endvr. in naples . the owner wasn't around to ask what they were and where they were available. they save having to replace the port.any ideas THANX

Date: July 12, 2000
From: Dennis King Kingdtk@aol.com

If your asking what I think your asking you can get the parts at most hardware stores. I think it is used for doors and windows.

I think it is called trim channel and its a three sided aluminim extrusion.

If I recall it comes in 4 or 8 foot lengths which would be enough for to fix 100 Endeavours. You also need a piece of stainless rod. The aluminum extrusion is three sided. Cut off about a 1/2 inch piece and drill a hole in the bottom and this will mount to the port frame with one screw or two small screws.

Drill a hole in both sides of the extrusion. The small stainless rod will pass through these two holes and the small hole in the threaded rod and knob assembly.

The treaded rod will pivot on this rod inside the aluminum extrusion.

You will have to make a few until you find the right size where the threaded rod will pivot and latch the window correctly. Once you get one down the rest are easy.

A Dremel tool is really handy to fine tune the cutting of the alumunium and to grind down the frame so the piece will fit flat.

I had about 8 or so of these on my ports until I finally got around to putting in new ports. But the Bomar (GRAY) Ports are garbage so I suspect it won't be to many more years before I am doing this again.

Date: February 26, 2001
From: Jay Call jaycall@mediaone.net

As I have just finished replacing all ten ports, I thought perhaps my experience would be of some interest.

My ports were the original installed ports. Hinges were cracked and broken, several leaked to one extent or another, chunks of plastic were missing from several finish rings, screens were torn -- well, you get the idea. The ports were a mess.

After some investigation, and some recommendations from folks in this group, I decided to replace the plastic things with bronze ports from New Found Metals. Called them up, got a quote for the ports, screens (also bronze), and hangers. They were about to raise their prices, but they gave me a quote at the old prices for what they had in stock -- just a little less than $2,000 all together, including shipping. The ports arrived here in SoCal just as promised, all complete, nothing broken. That was the easy part.

As I discovered when I removed the first port, all of the original ports had at some time been removed and rebedded -- all but two with 3M 5200 (the last two with silicon). This was a major problem, and the only way the ports came out without cobbing-up the wood and 'glass was by cutting them off the house sides with a Dremel. Nasty job. Melted plastic globs all over the place. And still, the 5200 pulled off some of the gelcoat.

Repaired the missing gel coat chunks with epoxy (they are covered by the finish rings, and let all that dry. The next step was drilling the 11/16" holds to accomodate the formed-in studs for the through-bolted bronze
14/20 x 3/4" machine screws. Fiberglass is hard. Went through 3 bits.

Before you drill, you should use a round rasp to make two U-shaped cuts to accommodate the rain drains in the port spigot. Sometimes, the existing porthole will be big enough so you'll be tempted not to do this, but do it anyway, it will help you maximize the use of the existing screwholes (at least for pilot holes) and insure a better fit all around.

The best techniqe for drilling (at least on the '32) is to fit the new port to the inside so that the middle holes on the side of the port line up with the existing screw holes from the old plastic ports. Then, screw the port on temporarily from the inside with a couple of the screws from the old platic port. This will insure that you get a good fit, and that when you're through, the ports all line up neatly. With the port held temporarily in place, mark the holes you'll want to drill though the house side, using the holes in the ports as guides. Remove the port.

Drill pilot holes all the way through the wood and fiberglass, working from the inside, using a fairly small bit -- 1/4" or so -- to minimize the splintering of the glass. Then, switch to your 11/16" foestner bit. Drill first from the inside through the plywood to just the glass, using the pilot holes as a guide, then from the outside through the glass. Don't forget: eye protection, and a paper paint-suit when you're drilling that glass -- or you're going to be very uncomfortable.

Next, clean the hole. Scrape all of the old caulking out and off the surface. Acetone will help you get it nice and clean.

Go buy lots of caulk. New Found Metals recommends Polysulfide, and after the difficulty in removing the 5200, I would never put that on anything that every has to be removed, ever. I used A LOT of polysulfide -- about a tube a port (buy it by the case from Defender early in the project and save yourself some money--you'll save about $4.00 a tube over your local chandlery's prices). Oh, use vinyl gloves, and plenty of cover for the inside and out. Pay attention, now: USE VINYL GLOVES.

Fill the spaces around the cutout between the plywood and the glass with polysulfide. Cover the inside ring of the port with Polysulfide. Cover the inside of the outside finish ring with Polysulfide. Try to not cover yourself with Polysulfide. The operative word is "try." Spoken like a challenge: "You just TRY not to cover yourself with polysulfide."

This next part is for two people. One person can do it, but it isn't pretty. Believe me. Get help. Have your helper push the port from the inside into the cut-out. Then, while he (or in my case, she) holds it there, squirt more Polysulfide into the inevitable spaces between the finish ring and the side of the port. Be sure to lay a nice, thick bead all around the spigot where it joins the inside frame. Fit the outer finish ring over the spigot, and seat it nice and snug, pushing it down by hand as far as you can.

Switch places with your helper. You go below, relieve him/her of port-holding-up-duty. He/she goes topside, applies pressure to the outer finish ring while you fit the machine screws in and tighten them down. Don't tighten them all the way, or you'll squeeze all the Polysufide out -- leave about a turn or so to go on each screw. Then, clean up the big glops, but basically, leave it alone while the Polysulfide cures. Give it a week or so (even though it says it cures in 24 hours, it doesn't, always).

After the Polysulfide cures, trim the excess Polysufide with one of those little plastic caulking cutters. Much better than slicing into you fiberglass with a razorblade trimmer. Then, screw the ports down HALF of the remaining distance. AHA! MORE uncured polysufide squirts out (though not much). Wait another week, then trim again.

Mount screens and hangers. Clean up. For real. Finally. It is (mercifully) over. For at least five years. So I'm told.

Folks, if you've never tried this, let me tell you, it is not for the faint of heart. It is a job. Of course, the fact that I had absolutely NO IDEA what I was doing when I started (and am only slightly better educated now) may have increased the difficulty of the job. But I'll tell you something, I DID IT!.

My buddies on B-dock think I'm nuts. Sometimes, when it's raining really hard, I hook up the waterhose, turn in on full blast, and direct the hardest stream I can right at the ports. Then I go inside, towel myself off, have a toddy, and revel in the most important thing: NO LEAKS. NOT ONE. NOT A DROP.

What gives me the most satisfaction though is when I hear someone telling Jackie: "My, those ports look nice!" And Jackie saying with pride, "Yes, we put those in ourselves." SHE'S BOUGHT IN! I'll also never get the Polysulfide out from under my fingernails. Not for five years, anyway.

Date: March 1, 2001
From: Jim Bone jbone@inexvision.com

The PYHI Ports were bought out by Bomar/Grey and promptly discontinued. Bomar will sell the gasket and dogs for them at $2.75 a foot and $9 per dog. I have the PYHI 5x12 Rectangular ones and I can't get a drop in replacement. The Greys have a different radius and a drain gutter. I closest (and I thing better) is from Beckson but I need to trim a 1/8" all the way around. Beckson will sell direct for 1/3 the price of retail.

Date: January 21, 2004
From: Matt Funk funkm@sysmatrix.net

My dad and I have a 1972 Irwin 32. Your Endeavour's predecessor. The original ports had been replaced sometime in the '80s with some PVC crapola, and leaked like a sieve. PVC distorts and becomes brittle in the sun, and you lose your seal. After mulling over what our options were, I saw a booth at the boat show where Newfound Metals had their products on display. They make a beautiful and very substantial unit. Our openings were about 5x10 I think, and the port weighs about 10 pounds each! Either Chrome, Bronze, or Stainless, they have a good assortment of sizes and are supposedly producing hatches early next year as well. We got the Stainless Steel and couldn't be happier. They ran about $1400 for six ports, with shipping and handling to New Jersey, and screens and hangers. That's about $230 a port. It's nice to have options. That was 2 years ago, but I'm sure their pricing is still in the same ballpark.

As Jay Call said, it can be a bear to remove the old unit, and cut/ drill your existing openings to accommodate the new hardware. It took my dad and I a day to do 2. We had to scoop out the rotted plywood core around each opening and stuff new shims into the cavity. (EOF Note: Endeavour did not core these areas). Then goop it up really well with the 3M stuff. The screws can be hard to get in, as the cabin top curves a little, and the fit isn't always exact at first. Once the sealant settles, you can tighten them up pretty easily. It is definitely a 2 person job, and I recommend having lots of bits, a jig saw, a dremel, and a respirator. Fiberglass is nasty stuff to breathe.

I would advise against getting a plated product like chrome over brass. The chrome can pit and flake off in time. Especially if it gets scratched. Just look at the chome plated fittings on older boats, like lifeline and railing hardware... Ours are all weathered down to the base metal in more than one place. Your best bet is to get something that is all the same metal, and solid construction. I personally think aluminum units are a little flimsy. The only advantage there is weight, and if you're not a serious racer, then who cares about the weight. We had a 26 foot Pearson that we sunk in a storm. A wave broke over the deck and blew out the dinette window. Every other wave flooded the cabin when it broke over the deck and washed in through the blown out port. We didn't appreciate washing up in the surf in the Hamptons at 2 in the morning, and watching the hull of our boat being smashed on the beach after coming ashore. So my feeling above all is get something that can take a beating. Check out http://www.newfoundmetals.com

On the Iwin 32, we liked the stainless steel so much that we got matching Stainless funnels. It looks great! Now we just neet to dress up the gelcoat...

Date: February 5, 2005
From: Paul Uhl endvr32@endeavourowners.com

We've recently had a number of inquires about replacing the stock plastic Beckson ports on Endeavours with more substantial replacements. Up until now a majority of the the alternatives have been to replace them with heavy stainless steel, bronze, or chrome plated cast metal ports.

While at the Strictly Sail show here in Chicago yesterday I came across the Atkins Hoyle booth. For those of you who are unfamiliar with Atkins Hoyle, they were the supplier for the deck hatches on almost all the Endeavours made. What was interesting is that they now make standard size ports (5x12 and 7x14) that will fit the existing Beckson cut outs on our Endeavours. And the best part is that they are anodized cast aluminum which are MUCH lighter than the cast bronze ports, and not much heavier than the Becksons. Cost appears to be comparable to the cast bronze ports, roughly $368 for the 5x12 and $415 for the 7x14

I know that adds up to a significant amount of money but for those of you seriously considering the upgrade, the weight savings alone makes them worth serious consideration. I'm not sure what Lewmar ports cost--they have three "quality" options to choose from: Standard, Atlantic, and Ocean.

Also, Atkins Hoyle will recondition existing deck hatches replacing the Lexan lens and the gasket for roughly $200. That of course depends upon port size and lens thickness but it's considerable less money (and work) than replacing it with a new one.

Date: February 20, 2005
From: Tom Foglesong goldrushwestern@comcast.net

Hello. I just came back from Strictly Sail Miami. Newfound Metals has a new port style that is part stainless and part plastic composite. I bought 8 ports for my 80 32' Endeavour for 1059.00. This included the stainless steel screens. These ports are awesome. All pieces and parts are easily replaceable when necessary. So popular that I have to wait 2 months for delivery.

R E P L Y